Lawn Care
There's much more that goes into a lawn than meets the eye. Having a pristine lawn is the result of healthy grass, fertilizer, mowing, watering, and weeding, which takes work on the part of the grower.
Lawns have a rich history, dating back to medieval times. Popular in Europe, they often consisted of a pasture or field. It wasn't until Elizabethan times that lawns became a place to be admired. They were made up of meadow plants, such as chamomile, and began the era of the "English lawn," a status symbol of the wealthy. It wasn't until after the US Civil War that lawns became popular in America. And with the invention of the lawn mower in 1830, lawns have continued to be a staple of most American homes.
Ornamental grasses
With so many varieties to choose from, ornamental grasses make lovely additions to yards. They come in numerous colors, including brown, blue, red, green and cream, and grow anywhere in size from a few inches to several feet. They are extremely adaptable, and can be used as ground cover, fillers or specimens, or border or background plantings. Most species have a long growing season, and inflorescence is often long lasting.
In order to find an ornamental grass that bests fits your needs, there are a number of factors to consider, including climate, soil type, and personal preference.
Cool season grasses
Cool season ornamental grasses include fescue, blue oat, tufted hair, and autumn moor grass. They usually begin to grow in early spring, and many remain semi-evergreen over the winter. Cool season grasses thrive when given ample amounts of water, and they may require frequent division to keep them healthy. They will grow in many types of soil, making them ideal for places in your yard where other plants won't grow.
Warm season grasses
Some popular warm season ornamental grasses include Japanese silver, Pampas, Northern sea oats, Perennial fountain, and Prairie cord grass. These grasses thrive during warmer times of the year and can withstand high temperatures and humidity. Warm season grasses, unlike cool season grasses, do not show growth until soil is warm. They usually become brown in the fall, and need to be cut back. They do not require as frequent division as cool season grasses.
Understanding growth patterns
There are two main ways that ornamental grasses grow; they are either clump forming or rhizome forming.
Clump-forming grasses, literally, grow in mounds or clumps. They usually mix well with other perennials and are not invasive but increase in diameter over time.
Rhizome-forming grasses, also called running grasses, spread by underground stems. They can become both invasive and aggressive. Depending on how you plan to integrate ornamental grass into the landscape, make sure you are setting yourself up for future problems.
Caring for ornamental grasses
Once you have decided on an ornamental species and planted it, which is usually done in the spring or the fall, your grass will need proper care. Here are some tips that may help.
Water: After the first season of planting, make sure that ornamental grasses are well watered. Established plants do not need regular watering, except in times of drought. Please note that water requirements vary depending on grass species, location, size, and the growth rate desired.
Fertilizer: Lucky for you, ornamental grasses require low levels of fertilizer. In the spring, or when they resume growth, apply 1/2 to 1 pound of fertilizer per 100 square feet. A slow release fertilizer is ideal, and will ensure healthy grass throughout summer. Please note that nitrogen levels should be kept low so that "flopping" is avoided.
Weeds: An application of mulch, which limits weed growth, should be placed around grasses. Since mulch also retains water well, it will also help to lower watering frequency. Pesticides can also be used, although organic gardening would suggest that removing weeds by hand was more environmentally friendly.
Division: Preformed in the spring or in fall after the growing season, division is usually done on cool climate ornamental grasses. Plants that have "die-out" in the center show an indication that division is needed.
Spring cleanup: Cut back grasses to anywhere from 4 to 6 inches in early spring before summer growth begins. Grasses will begin growth earlier than if old foliage is removed from the plant.
Zoysiz grass
Zoysia is a genus of eight species of grass that are native to China, Japan, and other areas in Southeast Asia. Often found in coastal areas, Zoysia is a sod-forming perennial that contains both stolons (also called runners) and rhizomes, the horizontal stem of a plant that sends out shoots or roots underground. The first species of zoysia, matrella, was introduced to the US from the Philippines in 1911. Since then, it has gained popularity.
Adapting to a foreign soil
Zoysia is a warm-season grass, which means it thrives in areas along the Atlantic coast, from Florida to Connecticut, and along the Gulf Coast, from Florida to Texas. It is also gaining ground in California, and can be found in other regions of the deep South. Zoysia is commonly used on golf courses, for home lawns, in parks, and on athletic fields. Highly versatile, zoysia can be grown in many types of soil, ranging from sand and clay to acidic and alkaline.
Three's a charm
There are three species of zoysia grasses found in the US, each varying in texture, cold tolerance, and care requirements.
- Zoysia Japonica, also called Korean or Japanese lawn grass, is coarse in texture, but is more tolerant of cold than the two other species. The only species grown from seed, Meyer grass is a strain of Japonica. Meyer produces a dense turf, and grows well in partial shade. It grows well in areas where summers are too hot for cool season grass, but winters are too cold for a hot summer grass.
- Zoysia Matrella is primarily a tropical and subtropical grass. Although it takes a long time to become established, Matrella will eventually form a thick mat. While it prefers full sun, it will also grow in shady areas. This species will stay green year round in warmer climates, but will brown after several frosts in cooler climates.
- Zoysia Tenuifolia is the last species, but it has the finest texture of the three. It is very fluffy, and does not hold well in cold climates. It is often used as a ground cover because of its short, wiry leaf blades. Like all zoysia, it also produces a dense turf.
So why chose zoysia?
Here are a few great things about zoysia and a few reasons why you will want to consider growing it:
- Drought-resistant: In severe conditions, it will turn straw colored, but it can bounce back with rainfall or irrigation. The nature of zoysia grass allows it to conserve water, as it has a deep root system.
- Holds up well underfoot: Due to denseness, zoysia is often the grass of choice for lawns, golf courses, and baseball fields.
- Self maintaining: It doesn't need to be fertilized regularly, like many other grass types. If you choose to fertilize, use a nitrogen-release type in the spring, and a winterizer in late fall.
- Tolerant of salt: That's why it is often grown along sandy seashores, such as the Atlantic and the Gulf of Mexico.
- Relatively pest-free: While no lawn is completely free of pests and disease, the only major things to watch out for are brown patch, rust and leaf spot diseases.
The drawbacks
No grass, of course, is ideal for every lawn in every location. Here are a few reasons why zoysia may not be right for your yard.
- Slow growth: That's right, but good things come to those who wait.
- Inability to grow in cold climates: If you live in the Northern part of the US, zoysia is probably not the right grass for you.
- Intolerant of excessive shade: If the majority of your lawn is in the shade, zoysia will probably not grow well. It can tolerate some shade, but too much and your grass won't stay green.
Lawn care basics
Caring for your lawn doesn't have to be difficult. In fact, if you understand the basics of proper lawn care, you’re off to a good start. Here is some information and tips that may help you get started.
Watering
Grass can't grow without water, and that's why giving your lawn the proper amount of water is crucial to its survival. Experts recommend 1 inch of water per week, either through rain or sprinklers. While there is no way to accurately measure the amount, checking your sprinkler's water pressure can give you some indication. If grass is turning a silvery-blue or brown, you'll know it isn't receiving an adequate amount of water.
Here are a few other watering tips:
Water early in the day: Night watering can cause lawns to develop mildew and fungus.
Water deeply: A light sprinkling doesn't get deep into the soil, which is needed to promote strong roots.
Be aware of local watering restrictions: During times of drought, your county can limit the amount of days you are allowed to water. Make sure you thoroughly water when you are allowed.
Water more than once a week: Two to three days is ideal, providing 1/3 to a 1/2-inch per session.
Mowing
Like getting a haircut, you want to create the right grass length, or height, when mowing. There are different recommendations based on type of grass, so knowing grass type is important. For example, Zoysia grass should be kept from 3/4 inch to 2 inches, while Kentucky Bluegrass can range from 1.5 to 2.5 inches in height.
For a well-cared for lawn, follow these mowing tips as well:
- Mow once a week: In the spring, lawns may be mowed twice when grass is growing at a rapid rate.
- Cut 1/3 of length of the grass per mowing: Cutting further down can damage the grass and the mower blades.
- Mow in different directions every time: For example, mow horizontally one week, and vertically or diagonally the next. Mowing the lawn the same way week after week can cause grass to lean.
- Keep mower blades sharp: Mowing with dull blades can cause lawn grass to become damaged.
- Never mow a wet lzawn: This can cause uneven patches, which invite fungus.
Fertilizer
Fertilizing your lawn is important; not only does it provide nutrients it, but it ensures a healthy future. Between heat, bright sun, getting walked on, and mowing, lawns take quite a beating. Lawns need to have certain levels of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium in order to thrive.
- Choose a fertilizer based on grass type: Buying a fertilizer without taking this into account is like purchasing prescription eyeglasses with any random prescription.
- Choose the right type of spreader: Fertilizer spreaders vary depending on lawn size. Smaller lawns tend to use a drop spreader while larger lawns use a rotary spreader.
- Fertilize 4 to 5 times a year: Early spring, late spring, late summer, early fall and late fall are ideal times. Space two months between fertilization times.
Weeding
Even well cared for lawns develop weeds from time to time. There are two types of weeds to be on the lookout for: broadleaf (which include dandelions and thistle) and grassy weeds (crabgrass and goose grass). To get rid of weeds, follow these tips:
- Use a broadcast herbicide: Scotts Turf Builder is one recommendation.
- Pull weeds by hand: This is the organic approach to care if you don't want to use chemicals on your lawn.
- Create a thick lawn: The denser the lawn, the less likely weeds are to invade. While this doesn't happen overnight, properly caring for your lawn over several years will go a long way.
Lawn care guide
What kind of grass is it?
One of the first things you'll need to learn about is the grass type in your yard. Knowing grass type is important because it affects what kind of fertilizer to use, what length to mow, and what kinds of pesticides will be effective. Grass type is usually determined by the region in which you live.
If you live in a cool-season region, for example, which includes Northern California and any state north of Virginia, you may have Kentucky bluegrass, ryegrass, or fescue. Hot summer grasses include Bermuda grass, centipede, St. Augustine, and zoysia. Refer to a source such as Scotts Lawn to help you find out grass type. If you are still having trouble identifying your grass type, you can bring a sample into a local hardware store or talk to your neighbors.
Starting from scratch
If you are starting a lawn from seed, there are a number of questions you'll need to ask yourself before you choose a grass type. Since all regions of the country allow for more than one grass type, you do have a say in the matter. Consider the following:
- Not all grasses look the same: They vary in color, leaf width, and general appearance. What do you want your lawn to look like?
- Time and money: Some grasses need more care and maintenance than others. Do a little research on the price of different grasses and what their requirements are.
- What is your lawn’s primary purpose? Is it meant to be decorative, or used as a play area for children or pets?
- Growing conditions: Is the area in shade or sun? What is the soil type? What is the general climate like?
Getting the Right Tools
So, you've figured out what kind of grass you have or what kind of seed you'd like to plant. Now what? If you have an established lawn, there are a few tools you'll need.
- Lawn Mower: When purchasing a mower, keep in mind that there are several options: a push mower, a riding lawn mower (recommended for large yards), mowers with adjustable speeds, a body made out of aluminum or steel, and pull start or electric start. Finding the right mower is a matter of personal preference.
- Spreader: A spreader is tool that helps apply lawn fertilizer. There are two main types: rotary and drop spreaders. Rotary spreaders tend to be used on large lawns that are free of flower beds or gardens. They get the job done fast. Drop spreaders are more precise, take a little longer than rotary spreaders, and are often used on smaller lawns.
- Trimmer: A trimmer, similar to an edger, can be used to clean up the places your lawn mower missed. Trimmers are useful for cutting through patches of weeds or tall grasses. They tend to run on gasoline or electricity and cut rapidly.
- Edger: An edger cuts at a vertical angle, which makes it ideal for removing grass that is next to other foliage, such as bushes. Edgers can run on gasoline or electricity. Two popular kinds include turf and rotary edgers, which make lawn care easy.
- Sprinkler: Almost any kind of sprinkler works for watering lawns. Just make sure to purchase one that has a timer, as timers can ensure that your lawn gets enough water, but isn't wasteful.
All about lawn weeds
Which weeds do you have?
Knowing what you are dealing with is the first step to getting a better lawn. Usually plants are categorized by their life cycle.
Annual weeds
These weeds live for one year, usually germinating in the early spring and producing seed by the fall. Crabgrass and prostrate spurge are two often found in lawns.
Biennials
Two-year weeds are not very common in grass. They start as a rosette and grow a flowering stalk in their second year.
Perennials
As a homeowner, the perennials are your most common enemy. Dandelions and ground ivy are common lawn weeds, but the ivy and other creeping perennials are the greater hassle because of their pervasive root systems.
The line up
The battle is a daunting one, requiring patience and a firm denial of the impossible odds. A mature dandelion, for example, will produce 15,000 seeds, all of which can survive up to six years in your soil. It doesn’t take a professional groundskeeper to tell you that the exponential growth is astounding. Compare your culprits with the following descriptions to see if you can prevent their relentless sprawl.
Crabgrass
A villainous annual. Spreading, tall stems with blue to purple leaves, hairy. Likes underfed, lightly watered, short grasses. A thick turf is the best way to crowd it out, but a pre-emergent herbicide can be applied in the spring.
Dandelion
Broadleaf perennial. It also prefers thin grass. Best if plucked before flowering, then spot treated with a selective broadleaf weed killer.
White Clover
Broadleaf perennial, repeat offender. Identified by its stems, sprouting three leaves marked by white crescents. Will infiltrate any well-watered, but poorly nourished turf. Nitrogen fertilizer and selective broadleaf weed killer will do the job.
Ground Ivy
A dodgy perennial, also broadleaved. Sometimes goes by Creeping Charlie. Green rounded leaves sprawl along the ground, taking root when possible. Sprouts up in over-watered lawns. Yank and spot treat.
Quackgrass
A perennial, not bad-looking, either. Tall thin stems with flat greenish-blue leaves. These ones require extra vigilance. Excavate every remaining root as each piece can grow a new plant. Spot treat.
Spotted
Spurge A broadleaf annual, grows in packs. This spurge loves low grass and populates quickly. Brownish-red markings on each of its low-lying leaves make for a positive ID. Pull any isolated plants immediately, then spot treat.